Search This Blog

How to clean a linen closet

Sheets, blankets, towels, washcloths, and more fill the shelves of our linen closet. But more often than not, those neatly stacked linens end up toppling over and bursting out of our closets. If only there was a way to keep a linen closet cleaned and organized.
  1. Take everything out of the linen closet.
    To get the full scope of what linens you have and what shape they are in, you need to take everything out. Put linens into four groups, give away/sell, throw away, store elsewhere, and keep. Throw away, put away, and pack up any items that will no longer be kept in the linen closet. Leave the keep items in a pile outside of the linen closet for now.
  2. Vacuum and dust the interior of the linen closet.
    Wipe down the interior shelves with a dust cloth. Vacuum the corners and floor of the linen closet. If it has been awhile since the closet has been cleaned, it may require a mopping as well. If the shelves are not lined and/or sealed, lay down shelf liner to protect your linens.
  3. Fold the linens.                            This is the make it or break it part of organizing your linens. For towels, fold the long lengths into thirds before folding into a perfect square. Sheet sets can be folded neatly and placed inside a coordinating pillow case. For bulky items like tablecloths and runners, consider using an over the door towel rack on the door of your linen closet. This will free up space in your linen closet and keep the bulky items neat and organized.
  4. Put linens back into the linen closet.                                              Even after all that work, the first time you put a stack of towels back into a linen closet, they might fall over. Avoid this by purchasing wire shelf dividers that will keep stacks tight and separate, while still allowing you to pull from any part of the stack. Put bulky winter blankets, and out of season items in the very top of the linen closet. Place sheet sets on one shelf, and towels on another in the middle of the linen closet. I store my kitchen linens and multi-purpose rags in my kitchen, but they can be put in a bin in the linen closet if you prefer.
  5. Put any non-linen items back into the linen closets.
    I store a portable vacuum cleaner and swimming supplies in our linen closet. The bottom of the linen closet can be a good place to store other items for easy access.

What You Need

  • Vacuum
  • Dust cloth
  • Shelf liner
  • Over the door towel rack (optional)
  • Shelf dividers (optional)
No comments:

How to Clean Leather Furniture

Leather furniture is easy to clean and maintain. At least most of the time. Barring a few emergencies where you are better off calling a professional, you can maintain leather fairly easily. It is a very forgiving material.
While leather furniture is expensive, but the investment pays off as it can easily last a lifetime with just a little everyday care. Before looking elsewhere for tips on cleaning and maintenance, it is best to follow instruction from your manufacturer, because different types of leather furniture may require different methods of cleaning.
However, if your leather furniture did not come with instructions:
  • Try the gentlest cleaning methods first.
  • Always test in an inconspicuous spot.
  • Consult a professional if the stain is hard to remove.
  • Use a wiping motion and don't scrub.
  • NEVER use harsh chemicals, alcohol, strong detergents or abrasive cleaners to clean leather. All of these may cause irreparable damage to your leather sofa. Remember that when cleaning leather, gentler is always better, and strong abrasives cause more damage than any stain that may happen.

Everyday Cleaning and Care

  • Wipe down leather furniture with a clean, soft, white cloth every week or so. Do this more frequently in a dusty environment. Why white? A white cloth ensures that you don't deposit dyes on your leather couch by mistake, and it is also easy to see if you have removed all the dirt.
  • Vacuum your leather furniture from from time to time, just as you would for any other upholstery material.
  • But unlike other upholstery, you can use a damp, soft cloth to remove dirt build up if you have not been cleaning it regularly. Just make sure your cleaning cloth is damp, not soaking wet.

Grease Stains

  • Grease stains do not call for a damp cleaning cloth, because you will not be able to get the grease out with water. For these it is best to use a dry, soft cloth and use a blotting action. Press down to blot up as much grease from the leather surface as you can.
  • Use talcum powder or cornstarch, and sprinkle on the leather surface. Allow to sit for a while and then brush away using a brush with soft bristles. You may have to repeat this process a couple of times. Do not rub. This technique also works on fabric.

Water Stains

  • The best remedy is to blot with a soft cloth immediately, as soon as the spill occurs.
  • If the water has dried, use a soft damp cloth and starting from the stain wipe outwards towards the edges of the cushion in all directions. Again, no scrubbing, only wipe gently. Use less and less moisture as you go outward. This technique provides a uniform effect for the entire treated leather surface, while minimizing the stain.

Ink Stains

  • Ink stains on leather are among the hardest to remove, and may need to be cleaned by a professional depending on the kind of ink, and the severity of the stain. As with any other stain, fresh ink stains are easier to remove.
  • Small marks, such as those from ball point pens, may disappear on their own over a period of time. You can also try cleaning smaller stains using a gentle soap solution.
  • Big blobs of ink will need to be treated professionally. Do not use alcohol to clean your leather furniture, as you could potentially damage the color.
No comments:

How to Condition Vintage Leather

Cleaning and conditioning leather is very simple if you just think of leather as skin. Just as you need to clean and moisturize your own skin, leather needs to be maintained in the same way to stay supple, pliable, and resilient. If you keep your own skin care in mind while caring for your vintage leather, it is sure to outlast you.
  • Professional Leather Cleaning
    If you have a very special or very delicate leather item, or if you do not want to take any chances cleaning it yourself, there are professional leather cleaners that can do it for you.
    Many dry cleaners offer leather cleaning services through which your leather is sent off site to a professional cleaning company and then returned to the dry cleaners.
    Although this process is done by professionals, slight variations in color, texture, and shape may result; so be sure to clean matching garments together even if only one piece is dirty.
  • Cleaning at Home
    In many cases all that is necessary to clean leather is a damp cloth or a store bought leather cleaner. This will remove any surface dust or dirt. (Always follow manufacturer's instructions when using a cleaner specifically for leather.)
    If the leather has been in contact with perspiration, water, or is stiff, you may need a more substantial method to cleanse it.
    Hand Washing
    1. Treat or remove any stains on the leather before washing it.
    2. Using warm soapy water made with an gentle cleanser like baby shampoo, Dove (unscented), or soap flakes rub the leather with a soft cloth to produce a lather in any area you want to clean.
    3. Wipe away excess lather with a clean cloth.
    4. Rinse leather thoroughly either by running through warm water or wiping several times with a damp cloth.
    5. Pat leather dry with a clean towel to remove excess water.
    6. Allow leather to dry flat in a warm place out of direct sunlight and away from a strong heat source (fire, heater, stove, etc.)
    Washing Leather in a Washing Machine
    Some people claim that leather can be washed using a washing machine set on a very gentle (wool or delicate) setting with warm or cool water.
    This method may not be worth the risk if you are washing a very old vitnage piece.
    If you choose to use this method, DO NOT use any detergent meant for washing clothes other than Woolite or Soap Flakes. Also, do not use more soap than is necessary to make the water slippery with a small amount of bubbles. Too much soap will make the leather dry and stiff!
    Conditioning leather replaces the tanning oils that are depleted over time through wear, heat, and moisture. Reconditioning leather every 6-9 months will ensure that it never becomes stiff, dry, or cracked.

    Conditioning Vintage Leather

    A leather conditioner is necessary for this step. There are hundreds of products available for this task, so be sure to read the label before using a leather conditioner to be sure that that particualar priduct is suitable for your vintage leather item.
    Do not use leather conditioners that contain waxes or silicone which do not allow the leather to breathe
    1. Always use a lint free soft cloth when conditioning leather; microfiber cloths are ideal.
    2. Dampen the cloth with water before applying the conditioner to it so that there is not too much conditioner applied to the leather.
    3. NEVER apply contitioner directly to the leather, apply to cloth first.
    4. Apply conditioner to leather by gently rubbing into the lie or nap of the leather until the entire surface has been covered.
    5. Several light applications are preferred over a heavy soaking of conditioner.
    6. Allow conditioner to penetrate the conditoner for at least 30 minutes before applying antother coat.
Once the leather has completly dried, then it is time to condition it!

No comments:

Arrange Furniture Using Floor Plans

One of the great things about moving is the chance to start over in a new place, and by using floor plans, you can create a unique space that works well for you.
With the help of some great online tools, creating that perfect new space is even easier.

 As I've mentioned in previous articles, we're in the process of planning our next move. 
And since we already know what the layout of our new home will be, I'm starting to plan where everything will fit.
This is also a good project to undertake before you even begin to pack up your home to move. 
Knowing the size of space you're moving into, how it's set-up, can help determine what should move with you and what should be left behind.

Furniture Arranging Sites - Free Templates

  • Ikea provides guides for arranging furniture by various rooms, including the kitchen and storage options. Free and easy to use, this is a good place to start.
  • Autodesk Homestyler is a great free tool that allows you to design a room in 3D or arrange furniture using a more traditional tool. Both are easy to use with inspiration provided by some before and after examples.
  • My Decor's website is a great place to start as well. It's professional style and tips offers a lot of information and tools in one place and it's in 3D so you can see just how a room might look. Plus, their use of color helps to imagine more than just furniture layout; you can see how color might work together in a space. Takes a little time to get your room started, but once you do there's lots of great stuff here to use. Highly recommended.
  • Copenhagen Furniture offers printable templates and tips on arranging furniture and drawing your room to scale. Again, a great tool for those who prefer to use actual paper to model their home.

No comments:

Vacuuming Walls and Ceilings

How to Vacuum Ceilings and Walls: 

 Use your vacuum cleaner attachments to add an extender hose and a dust brush tool. Begin by vacuuming the ceiling and work your way down the walls.

 How to Vacuum Ceiling and Wall Vents: 

 Use the dust brush tool and/or the crevice tool to clean dust that accumulates around the air vents in your home.

 How Often to Vacuum Ceilings and Walls: 

 Ceilings and walls only need to be vacuumed 2-3 times a year. If you have wallpaper that is puffy and flocked, it may need to be vacuumed monthly. Air vents need to be vacuumed weekly when heating and air units are in use.
No comments:

Woodworking Vacuums

Many woodworking shops have central dust collection systems that are connected to all major woodworking tools in the shop to keep sawdust to a minimum.
In addition to keeping the tools' work surfaces cleaner, these dust collection systems will help keep sawdust out of the tool motors, which should lead to longer life for the machinery.

The problem is that most hobbyist or professional woodworkers may have limited shop space or a limited budget that prohibits the installation of a full-scale dust collection system.
The solution? A portable wood shop vacuum (sometimes referred to as a portable dust extraction system or a wet/dry vac). 
These units are versatile, as many can suck up liquids as well as dry materials. 
However, for woodworking purposes, when choosing one of these shop vacs, there are a few features for which you should be sure to look.

Woodworking Features:

The first feature to look for when choosing a woodworking vacuum is air flow.
If the vacuum doesn't have a large enough motor to pull in the majority of the sawdust that your woodworking tool creates, it isn't much good. 
Compare the CFM (cubic feet-per-minute) ratings between different units.
 Typically, a motor with a higher amp or HP rating will have a higher CFM, but not always.

 Second, check to see that the hose is large enough to handle your biggest woodworking tools, and that you have the ability to connect to all of your power tools. 
You may need to buy an accessory kit to match all of your power tool ports.
Third, look for a unit that has a portable base and a low center of gravity. 
Often, these units tend to be pulled around by the hose, and if they are top-heavy, they'll fall over easily when being moved.

Fourth, try to find a unit that isn't overly loud. 
 Some models are powerful, but require the user to wear hearing protection just to clean up the shop. 
While you may find this acceptable, it can be a hassle at times, particularly when you just want to clean up a small area.

Additional Features:

Vacuum systems designed for woodworking typically have a few additional features that are quite helpful. 
The first is a switch that can be set to come on whenever you turn on the connected woodworking tool. 
While this isn't a required feature, it is one that you'll certainly appreciate from the first use.

 Another quality feature to look for is a HEPA filter system. 
This type of filtering system should help to reduce the amount of dust that gets past the filtering system and pushed back into the air through the vacuum's exhaust system.
Other thoughtful features are longer power cords, easy bag-changing systems, various pickup attachments, and the ability to move the hose to the exhaust side of the vacuum to act as a leaf blower.

No comments:

Dyson Tangle-Free Turbine Tool Review

One of the most practical and efficient vacuum accessories ever made is a beater or brush bar. 
Whether power or air-driven, this type of vacuum attachment has become a must in many homes, because the brush roll is a big help to pick up dirt and debris. 
However, the most frustrating thing is trying to remove hair, thread or other long debris that always gets tangled in the brushes.

This new Dyson vacuum tool called the Tangle-free Turbine Tool, promises to put an end to that frustration. I was most eager to try it out.

Product Despcription

    Dyson Tangle-free Turbine Tool
  • Compatible with DC19 onwards, excluding DC24 and cordless.
  • Mini turbine tool that is air driven
  • Flexible heads bend to maintain contact with uneven surfaces
  • Counter-rotating heads with brushes that remove hair and dirt from carpets and upholstery
  • Brushes reach to the front and side of tool to pull in hair, dirt
  • 1-Year warranty
  • Learn more from the manufacturer
  • MSRP: $69.99

How the Tangle-free Tool Performed

This is certainly a very different turbine tool and with a footprint of about 5" x 3", is much smaller than I expected. 
Rather than for floors, this tool is designed for carpeted stairs, furniture or vehicle upholstery and anywhere else a small turbine head is practical. 
It's air driven, so there's no motor to wear out. 
The plastics seem very durable and the rotating heads move freely and smoothly.

It's a very neat type of design that prevents clogs or tangles by pulling in debris from front and sides and directing it straight up into the vacuum. 
The air intake on the top of the tool enhances the flow of air, keeping things moving through the tool, unlike traditional brush bars where tangles and clogs reduce suction and efficiency. With this tool, it's clear sailing - no build-up so no loss of suction.

During testing, I attached it to the hose or handle of the Dyson DC26 and also to the wand to vacuum entrance mats. 
Note that this vacuum attachment can be used with most Dyson's except pre DC19 models, the DC24 and their cordless models.
If unsure which vacuum you have, refer to your product manual or visit Dyson site and their Tangle-free Turbine Tool page to check compatibility. 
I was rather surprised that it did fit the new DC44 Animal Cordless Handheld.

There are tiny brushes in this tool, but it's a totally re-vamped design from traditional brush bars. 
Brushes are on the flat face of the heads which are counter-rotating, so there is constant movement and the tool can pick up hair and debris easily. 
The bottom has a flexible base, so it navigates easily when the surface is uneven, which is typical of upholstered furniture. 
The ease of use is very noticeable on upholstery and into the corners of stairs. 
There's also a few air channels on the bottom plate, so it can pull in nearby debris.

The main feature of this little vacuum tool is to do away with tangles - those annoying long threads and hair that tend to wrap around and often stop a brush roll in its tracks. With this vacuum attachment, there are no tangles, zilch. 
Whether short or long, all manner of hair, lint, thread and craft filament, went straight up into the dirt bin. This tool excels at picking up hair and long strands.

During testing, I was doing a lot of crafts including beading with fishing line and thread. Fireline® is really tough and a pain to vacuum when it comes to discarded strands under my work table. 
With this little turbine tool, they went up the vacuum without hesitation. 
We also had a guest at our music jam that had a shedding fiddle bow. 
No tangles either with those long strands. 
We do not have pets but for those who do, from the way this tool handles hair, thread and other long strands, it really should work just as well for pet hair removal.

Here's where I didn't prefer to use it. 
I cleaned the cloth upholstery in my mini-van. It's black and everything sticks to it. 
The Tangle-free tool did a good job picking up the hair, dirt, lint and it navigated well over the seats. 
But sawdust proved too tough for this tool. I had to resort to the DC44 Animal with its powerful mini motorized tool, to fully remove the sawdust that clung to the fabric. 
So the Tangle-free is great for hair and dirt, but not so much for sawdust on vehicle upholstery. Sawdust tends to be a natural occurrence here, but probably not a concern for most folks.

Overall Impression

I love this little tool for vacuuming furniture upholstery, carpeted stairs, around the craft area and removing dirt, lint and hair from vehicle seats. 
There is absolutely no tangles with this mini turbine tool; it's definitely a hair guzzler. I did use it on entrance mats and though it works well there, it is small and other Dyson floor tools are more convenient for that purpose.

I'd highly recommend it especially for those with pets, looking for an efficient hair removal vacuum tool. 
Crafters might also appreciate this vacuum tool. 
With its flexible design, it is so much nicer for vacuuming upholstery, than a standard furniture tool. When it comes to sawdust - that's another story - the older style brush roll is best. 
Price seems a little high for this unique vacuum attachment, but when you consider avoided tangle frustration, it's well worth it. 
Keep in mind that this is specialty tool, so use is limited. 
And because the short brush bristles are stiff, I wouldn't use it on hard surface floors.

Read reviews and more about Dyson products
Compare Prices of Dyson Products

Suggested Reading
Suggested Reading
Suggested Reading

Suggested Reading
No comments:
Subscribe to: Comments (Atom)